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Electronic Immobiliser Fault Citroen Picasso.


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Hi, and I hope someone can help....

 

I have a 2004 1.8 16v Picasso with 68000 miles on the clock. I bought it from new and have had it serviced etc on a annual basis, and until yesterday had no problems with the car at all. Then, out of the blue the car will not start first time (will after about 20 attempts) I keep getting a message on the display saying "parking brake" & "electronic immobilliser fault".

Is there anything I can do at a DIY level, or is it a very costly trip to the main dealer?

 

Thank you in advance.

Graham

Edited by grahamb
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There is a ring around the ignition barrel that picks up the signal from the chip inside the key fob. They are known to be temperamental.

Slowly put the key into the ignition and slowly turn until all the dash lights are on, then continue to turn the key and see if it starts. Sometimes the pickup ring misses the signal if the key is inserted and turned too quickly.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi, I dont want to hyjack the thread, but Ive got a similar problem.

My picasso is a 02reg 2.0Hdi SX with 104,000 miles under its belt.

 

Ive problems starting the car and I have to keep using my master key to get the car to start by putting key in ignition with footbrake pressed and holding the "lock" button on the remote whilst turning on whilst still holding the "button" for 10 seconds., its like the Imobiliser is losing its memory..

 

Any thoughts please.

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Do you have two keys, one with a remote lock fob and one without?

 

If yes does the car start with the other key.?

 

If yes then the problem must be in the master key fob.

 

inside it (and built into the other key) there is asmall black rectangular block, near the key blade. This is the imobiliser control chip. Cjeck that it is seated squarely with the long side nearest the outer edge of the fob. This small chip is picked up by the aerial wire in the ignition / steering column shroud and unlocks the imobiliser.

 

Holding the lock or unlock door buttons is used if the remote locking looses the car after a battery change, it doesn't allow the key to be reprogrammed though.

 

The imobilsier on my pic when I had one every so often would play up. Removingt he key and reinserting always fixed the problem.

 

If the answer to boith questions is no then I would suggest that the aerial lead in the column is the fault.

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Stimulator, Thanks for the reply :)

 

The car seems to run for less than a second at the 1st try , on all further attempts at starting the engine is turning but no go go, btw the LP pump in the tank sounds noisey when priming and whilst running.

 

My Remote key has decided to drop to bits, ie the large button has fallen out and no longer works ( need new key is it main stealers only ? )

 

The car acts the same with either key .

Edited by rockape2
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You can get a keyfob from ebay and change over the blade and guts from the old one to the new one BUT don't forget the imobiliser chip.

 

Sounds like either your imobiser aerial is knackered OR the pump in the tank is gone. Maybe best to search for a Citroen mech, no need to go to main dealer look in yellow pages for local Citroen specialist.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

The buttons in my remote key fob had detached so I bought a replacement fob from ebay. Exchanged circuit board and immobiliser chip but after reaching point of no return, in removing key blade (had to destroy plastic block at base of blade to remove it), I found the new blank blade was held in by a screw but the original was slightly shorter and was held by the plastic block I had just destroyed.

 

I had hoped to drill a hole in the base of the original, if there was no hole already under the plastic. However, with the plastic removed, the difference in blade length became apparent and a hole would have made the protruding blade length too short. Currently, the blade is just pushed in and works OK. I could use epoxy glue to strengthen the bond but I am not sure it will stick to the plastic and too much could make battery changing impossible! I could possibly have the blank blade cut to match the original if

a) grooves as well as edge profiles can be cut and,

b ) the blade is thick enough to work, it is not as thick as the ridges on the original key.

 

My reason for giving all this background is to answer this question - If the fob (with immobiliser chip) falls off the blade whilst driving, will this cause the engine (2L HDi) to stop? i.e. is the immobiliser only critical at the engine starting phase?

Edited by mcdig
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  • 1 month later...

Have just bought(well three months ago) 2.0HDi 2001 with 155,000 klms.Have replaced in tank pump/gauge unit(aftermarket German made).to cure intermittent engine stop fault.This was diagnosed from main dealer's Lexia software. Didn't fix fault although seemed to be ok for a week. My wife's vehicle, and hell hath no fury like a woman whose car doesn't go! Especially when it fails 200metres from home.Further main dealer(our only dealer in our East Coast province in the North Island of New Zealand), says immobiliser

fault. Put new one in.dead easy install.Quite cheap by the way as I get all my spares from the UK.£14.95. You would not believe the inflated spares prices the Australian and NZ

importer charges. And Peugeot are another 50% more. Everything is rosy for a while then died again after another week.

Sorry about all the boring history and the rant, Apologies if I've hijacked the topic but I wanted to get across the point about cheap and easy fit immobiliser. The microfiche refers to this as an aerial.

The problem seems to be heat, and especially soak, conditions. So I guess it would point to a sensor going open circuit. But which one?

Has one of our technical gurus any comments on the most likely culprits?

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  • 3 months later...

I also have a problem when I start my pic it runs perfect I will just about get round the block and the engine dies will not start until I remove the key and replace then it will start after 2 or 3 turns will run for a few more minutes then stop agaiin only to repeat the process again could do with some help. its a 2ltr hdi diesel

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The other part of the immobiliser is in the key fob.If you open the fob or split the fobless key 'handle' you will find a small black block. That is the operating part of the immobiliser.

Remove this from the key and for a trial srick it on the steering column near the ign key slot.

Does the car operate now?, If it does then the position of the block in relation to the aerial would seem to be a problem. If it doesn't try the other key.

Does it operate if the other key is used? If it does then the block in the original key is up the swanny. Have dealer replace key (buy from web) and get it reproged to match car.

 

Other than that I don't have a solution.

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Thanks I will give that try I have been told its the fuel pump but that doesnt seem logical as the car starts up again right after if it was the pump it couldnt could it? I am at my wits end I have checked and when the car dies there is no power to the pump until I take the key right out and reinsert then the pump kicks in for around 10 seconds Ihave scanned the car and it came up p2030 primary fuel circuit but surely that would happen if the fuel was shut of by the immobiliser I have tried all I know including changing the hp pump again

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  • 3 years later...

Hi,

 

Have stumbled over this thread from 3 years ago :)

 

This evening I was making a few stops and after getting in the car for the 3rd (and what turned out the last) time the car decided to just not turn on.  Turn the key and nothing.  There is a small "click" when you go to fire it up, but nothing else.

 

The key is battered.  The unlock bit has fallen out, and you have to unlock the car at the drivers door.  Oh, the metal bit is a bit bent, too.  Could this be it, the key being knackered?

 

I need to dig out the spare key from somewhere, but reckon this could help?  There are no buttons on that one, just the key.

 

Any help and reassurance that this isnt going to cost a fortune would be much appreciated :)

 

Its an 07 plate, if that makes a difference?

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I think you need to separate the issues here. Sounds like you have an ignition key on it's last legs, and a faulty car battery (or connections to it)

 

Can you get the lights to work?

 

Your spare key (with no buttons) SHOULD contain a transponder- and be OK.

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I think you need to separate the issues here. Sounds like you have an ignition key on it's last legs, and a faulty car battery (or connections to it)

 

Can you get the lights to work?

 

Your spare key (with no buttons) SHOULD contain a transponder- and be OK.

 

Hi, yes the lights work fine.  The radio comes on, and all the lights on the dash too.

 

I'll try the new key shortly and see how that goes :)

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  • 5 years later...

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